3D Printing Automotive Parts - Getting Started
Published: 30 July 2026
Last Updated: 19 August 2026
I know some people think that you need a really expensive 3D printer to automotive parts. That is partly true if you need to print parts that can withstand high temperatures. So someone that wants to print interior pieces or exterior mold pieces all you need to be able to print in is ABS or ASA. Currently, all printers on the market can print ABS and ASA. However, the key fact that you need to know and keep in mind when using ABS and ASA are that they “shrink” by about 0.4%, compared to PLA that shrinks by less than 0.1%. ABS and ASA were design to be used in injection molding process, hence the shrinking property of ABS when it colds help release the part from the dies. Therefore, to stop the part that you trying to 3D print in ABS/ASA from failing you need a temperature controlled print chamber that can heat the chamber to 65C. The last thing is that annealing print can significantly improve the strength and strain capabilities of the print. for ASA and ABS a few hours at 85-90C and then a slow cool down to ambient work a treat and you can feel the difference, as the part is less brittle.
Most printer over $1500 Aud have heated chambers, but for about $100 Aud you can turn any enclosed printer into a printer with a heated and temperature controlled chamber; while an open bed printer will cost about $200-300 to enclose it and heat the . Now it is just a matter choosing the size format printer that best suit your needs. I started out with a Creality K1 Max that have a build volume of 300mm x 300m x 300m that is enclosed but not a heated chamber, that was $1100 in 2024. Now you can buy it for under $900 on sale in 2026. This was a very reliable printer where I put over 3000 hours of printing in two years the only issues the only part that broke was a $2 clip that held the x-y belt to the print head. Creality’s customer service where great with the issue and I was able to purchase 6 of them. The best thing to do is print a few of those clip in ABS or ASA when you get the printer first. Other than that clip I just upgrade to a better heat brake to print high temp filaments, to stop the filament from softening at the extruder due to heat soak; and just replacing hot end every 20 kg of filament used.
To enable the printer to print large pieces in ASA or ABS I just insulated the two side walls, the door and the bottom of the printer to stop heat loss as the enclose is just a 3-5mm Perspex or glass. Then to actively heat the chamber I just used a 60 watts PTC heater with a size 50mm fan, that was stuck to the bottom of the enclosure. To control the heater I used a W1209 Temperature controller and a 12V power supply to power it. The most important thing is to insulate bottom of the print enclosure as the motherboard is bolt to the bottom of the print enclose. So to stop the printer shutting down due to thermal issues, you must insulate it for the added heat.
With all that said you can still purchase a sizer form factor printer like a 220×220×250mm for about $500-$600 AUD. you will just have the cut the pieces into multiple piece. This is quite easy as all slicer software (the software that take the 3D model and creates the G-Code that the printer understands to do its thing) like Orca Slicer can cut the model and add mechanical connectors like snap connectors, dovetails or dowels. The biggest limitation to any 3D printer is you; the designer, engineer, and machine operator. As you will learn what geometries you can print and in what orientation can you print them, how thick you need to make something to get the strength you require. I have included a list of literature to help you get started on your 3D printing journey:
General Tips and How to Guides:
Frankly Built YouTube Channel (not me just a coincidence)
Orca Slicer Beginners Guide by Planet 3DP
So, you have the 3D printer you have chosen your slicer, what’s next? You could start printing benchy’s or things off the internet, but if you want consistent good looking prints that are strong and not full of defects or internal stresses. You will need to calibrate the print for the filament you are using, as different band print sightly different. You could get lucky and the the settings from the factory are good enough for you. This tutorial by Covenant Customs is great if you are using Orca Slicer. After calibration you are ready to design, slice and print or own designs.
If you are stuck with what software to use to design parts or you do not want to pay for a CAD program read my FreeCAD Blog.